Consumer Unit Replacement Cost and What Is Involved

Replacing a consumer unit typically costs between £200 and £1,200 in the UK in 2026. The final price depends heavily on the size of the board, the type of protective devices installed and where you live. You might hear it called a fuse box or a fuse board, but the job and the equipment are exactly the same. The work involves testing your existing wiring, turning the power off for several hours, swapping the board and issuing the correct safety certificates.

What is a consumer unit?

A consumer unit is the modern term for a fusebox. It is the central hub of your home electrical system and divides the main electrical supply into separate circuits for your lights, sockets and appliances. It usually contains a main switch, fuses or circuit breakers and one or more RCDs. An RCD can be identified by its Test or T button, which you can press to check the device is working.

The main switch allows you to turn off all the electricity to your home at once if you ever need to. Each circuit breaker acts as a safety device that automatically cuts the power to a specific circuit if it detects a fault or an overload. Modern units are designed to contain fires and protect you from electric shocks much more effectively than older wooden or plastic fuse boxes.

Typical consumer unit replacement cost

Typical 2026 prices for replacing a consumer unit range from £200 for a small board outside London to £1,200 for a large board in London and the South East. Most homes will fall somewhere in the middle of this range. A straightforward replacement with a basic dual RCD split load board up to 10 circuits typically costs £450 to £700 across most of the UK. Upgrading to a board with individual RCBOs and surge protection pushes the typical price to between £550 and £800.

Published prices vary. The table below uses the lower set of published figures to show how the size of the board affects the price outside London, so treat it as the starting point for a basic board.

These figures represent typical published prices for 2026. The quotes you receive from local electricians will differ based on their own business costs and the specific details of your home. London and the South East cost noticeably more, with typical prices there ranging from £300 to £1,200.

What affects the price?

The number of circuits in your home is the starting point for any quote. A small flat might only need a 6-way board, while a large detached house might require a 16 way board to handle multiple showers, ovens and extensions. Larger boards take longer to wire and test, which adds to the labour cost. The type of protective devices you choose also changes the price significantly. A like for like main switch board is the simplest type and typically costs up to £550 outside London.

Moving the consumer unit to a new location is a major factor that will increase the bill. Relocating the unit adds roughly £300 to £600 or more to the final price. This extra cost covers the time and materials needed to safely extend the existing cables to the new position. It also involves more disruption and usually requires some making good to your plaster and decoration.

The biggest unknown cost is remedial work. Before an electrician can turn the power back on with a new board, they must prove that every existing circuit is safe. If their initial testing uncovers faults in your wiring, these must be fixed first. This is a common reason why a final bill might be higher than the initial quote. You might need to consider how much it costs to rewire a house if your wiring is very old and fails these mandatory safety tests.

What does the job involve?

Replacing a consumer unit is a strictly defined process that requires careful testing before, during and after the swap. It is not a quick job that can be squeezed into a spare hour. Your electrician will arrive and explain the plan for the day, as you will be without electricity for a significant period. You will need to shut down computers and plan around having no power for your fridge, freezer, heating and internet.

The process follows these specific steps.

1. The electrician tests the incoming supply and the main earthing and bonding to ensure they meet current safety standards.
2. They carry out preliminary tests on your existing circuits to find any hidden faults that might cause the new safety devices to trip.
3. The main power is switched off and the old fuse box is carefully disconnected and removed from the wall.
4. The new consumer unit is mounted to the wall and the existing cables are prepared and connected to the new circuit breakers.
5. The electrician turns the power back on and completes a full suite of tests on every single circuit to prove it is safe.
6. They fill out the required paperwork and hand over the safety certificates.

Unlike a full installation which involves separate first fix and second fix stages, a consumer unit replacement happens all at once. The electrician will not leave your property until the power is safely restored and the testing is complete.

How long does it take?

A straightforward replacement takes 4 to 6 hours to complete. This assumes that the existing wiring is in good condition, the new board is going in the exact same place, and access to the meter area is clear. Smaller 6-way boards can sometimes be finished in 3 to 4 hours.

Larger homes naturally take longer because there are more circuits to test and connect. Replacing a 16 way board typically takes 6 to 7 hours of continuous work. If the access is awkward, or if the electrician has to fix faults on your existing circuits before they can turn the power back on, the job can easily extend to a full day.

When does a consumer unit need replacing?

Being told you need a new fuse box does not always mean you do. If an EICR is satisfactory you do not need to replace the consumer unit, even if it does not have RCD protection. You can read more about what an EICR certificate is to understand how these safety checks work. Older boards are not automatically unsafe or illegal just because the regulations have been updated since they were installed.

However, there are times when a replacement is the only safe option. For all consumer units, signs of physical damage, thermal damage or discolouration should be checked by a registered electrician. If you can see scorch marks, melted plastic or cracked covers, you must keep away from the equipment and arrange an inspection immediately.

Repeated tripping is another clear warning sign. If an RCD keeps tripping there is likely to be a fault with an appliance or the wiring, and a registered electrician should investigate the root cause. Sometimes the problem is a failing consumer unit, but often it is a genuine fault on a circuit that a new board will continue to trip on. RCDs are also required for new builds, additions or alterations and rewires, so new circuits for an extension must have RCD protection, and your electrician may recommend a new board if the existing one cannot provide it.

RCDs, RCBOs and surge protection explained

When you ask for a quote, the electrician will likely offer you different types of protective devices. The national wiring standard is BS 7671, often called the Wiring Regulations, and it sets out where these devices are needed. The terminology can be confusing, but the differences are important for both safety and convenience.

An RCD protects a group of circuits, so one fault cuts power to several circuits. If your toaster develops a fault and trips the RCD, you might lose the power to your fridge and your downstairs lights at the same time. This is a common and cost-effective way to protect a home.

An RCBO protects one circuit, so a fault affects only that circuit. This is a more modern and convenient approach. If a fault trips an RCBO on the kitchen socket circuit, the rest of the house stays perfectly normal. Boards fitted with RCBOs cost more to buy and install, but they are much less disruptive when a fault occurs.

A surge protection device guards against voltage spikes. These spikes can come from lightning strikes or issues on the main power network. The surge protection device absorbs the excess voltage before it can travel through your circuits and damage sensitive electronics like televisions and computers.

Rules and certificates you should receive

Replacing a consumer unit is classed as notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. This means the work must be reported to your local authority building control department. Scotland has its own building standards system and Northern Ireland differs entirely. Electricians registered with a government-authorised competent person scheme such as NICEIC or NAPIT can self-certify this notifiable work.

If an unregistered person does notifiable work, building control must be told before the job starts. This usually means paying building control charges, which is why it is almost always better to hire a registered electrician. Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, a service must be carried out with reasonable care and skill. If the work is poor, you can ask for it to be put right at no extra cost. Services arranged at home, by phone or online usually carry a 14-day cooling-off period, but this does not automatically apply to urgent repairs you have specifically asked for. You can speak to Citizens Advice for guidance on your own situation.

After the job is finished, you must be given the correct paperwork. After notifiable work in England and Wales you should receive an Electrical Installation Certificate and a Building Regulations compliance certificate. For smaller alterations, a Minor Works Certificate is used instead. You should keep these documents safe for when the property is sold. Landlords have legal duties to have installations inspected at least every five years, with substantial penalties in England for failing to do so. For owner-occupiers, periodic inspection is a recommendation rather than a legal duty.

Questions to ask before you book

Getting a clear quote is the best way to avoid surprise costs. A quote is a fixed price, whereas an estimate is just a rough guess that can change. Small jobs and fault finding are usually charged by the hour, often with a call-out fee or minimum charge that covers the first hour. A consumer unit replacement should always be quoted as a fixed price based on the property size and the specification of the new board. out-of-hours work carries a premium, so emergency replacements will cost more than planned work.

Ask these questions before you agree to the work.

• Are you registered with a government-authorised competent person scheme?
• Does this fixed price quote include VAT and all materials?
• Will you supply an Electrical Installation Certificate and notify building control?
• Are you installing a split load RCD board or individual RCBOs?
• Does the quote include a surge protection device?
• Does the price include making good any damaged plaster around the new board?
• What happens if you find a fault on an existing circuit during testing?
• How long do you expect the power to be off?

Common questions

What is a consumer unit upgrade?

An upgrade usually means replacing an old fuse box that has rewirable fuses with a modern consumer unit that has circuit breakers and RCD protection. It can also refer to swapping a basic RCD board for one with individual RCBOs and surge protection. The process is the same as a standard replacement, and the cost depends on the type of board you choose.

Can I change a fuse board myself?

You should never attempt to change a fuse board yourself. Electricity is dangerous and a mistake can result in a fire or a serious electric shock. The work involves strict testing procedures that require expensive calibrated equipment and a thorough understanding of the national wiring standard.

How much does it cost to relocate a consumer unit?

Moving the unit to a different wall or room is a large job because every existing circuit cable must be safely extended to reach the new location. Relocating the unit adds roughly £300 to £600 or more to the standard replacement cost. The final price depends on how far the unit is moving and how difficult it is to route the extended cables.

Do I need a new consumer unit to sell my house?

There is no legal requirement to install a new consumer unit just to sell a property. Buyers often commission an EICR to check the condition of the electrical installation. If the report highlights that the board is physically damaged or lacks RCD protection for circuits that require it, the buyer might ask you to reduce the asking price to cover the cost of an upgrade.

What should I do if my fuse box smells of fish?

A fishy smell near a fuse box is a classic sign of overheating plastic and thermal damage. This is a serious fire risk. You should switch off at the main switch if it is safe to reach, keep away from the damaged equipment and call a registered electrician immediately.

Next steps

Replacing your consumer unit improves the safety of your home, but it is a major job that requires a professional. Take your time to choose a local electrician you can trust and get everything in writing before the work begins.

Follow these steps to get the job done safely.

• Check the electrician is registered with a scheme like NICEIC or NAPIT.
• Ask for a fixed price quote that includes the board, testing, certification and VAT.
• Confirm whether the quote is for a split load RCD board or an RCBO board.
• Ask what their hourly rate is for remedial work if they find existing faults.
• Plan to be without power for several hours on the day of the job.
• Make sure you receive your Electrical Installation Certificate and Building Regulations compliance certificate after the work is finished.

You can use this directory to find an electrician near you who can inspect your current setup and provide a detailed quote.